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THE Arlington for
many years was a favoured haunt for thirsty Dover Express staff, but a
growing number of fans are discovering a great little restaurant. IAN
READ met chef and the brains behind the venture. Kart Groombridge ...
STARTING up a restaurant in what was Kent's smallest pub is a daunting
task when you have to start from scratch.
But 28-year-old Karl Groombridge is building the Arlington, in Snargate Street, up with the
help of his family.
Karl is the culinary brains behind the former pub,
which became a restaurant in March 2004, while brother Ian took
care of the renovations to the building which dates from 1721.
He said:
"My mum keeps the books and the rest of the family have their input."
But Karl has sole responsibility for deciding on the menus and setting
the tone of the former pub overlooking Dover Marina.
"I am trying to
have a traditional flavour to the food although I do experiment
sometimes," he said.
"There is so much competition in the restaurant
business that you have to ensure you give value for money.
"I love
talking to customers so I can gauge what recipes work and how I can keep improving the food we
serve.
"At lunchtime, I am the chef and the waiter so I'm able to winkle
out their likes and dislikes. Your food has to keep evolving. You can't
stand still in this business."
Karl's week begins on a Tuesday when he
starts checking the meat and vegetables. The restaurant attracts yachties from the harbour and people having a slap up meal before going
on the ferry; as well as locals.
He said: "Sometimes we get people in
who don't realise we are not a pub any longer but hopefully we can
entice them in for a meal. All my food is local the furthest I go is to
Whitstable to buy my fish.
"I don't have time to do the Jamie Oliver
thing of going down the market personally every time but I do like to
see if
there are any new ingredients around when I do go out."
Karl has been in
the trade for 12 years, starting at the Imperial Hotel, Hythe, before
going on to the Fisherman's Wharf in Sandwich.
It took two months to get
the Arlington ready for business. The main bar had to be moved and the
place generally renovated. The walls are covered in drawings of Dover
scenes and Karl now wishes he had taken a bit more notice during his
local history lessons.
He said: "We don't make enough of our surroundings. We have got the
castle, but the town is in the midst of some of the most beautiful
countryside in Kent. We must make more of our assets because there is a
lot more to see around here."
When Karl and Ian renovated the pub they
didn't find any hidden treasure - just a lot of woodworm. But everything is shipshape and Dover fashion. Now everything
hinges on building a great reputation for the 17-seater restaurant.
He
said: "Everything is steadily moving forward but we will have to wait
for another five years to know if we have really been a success."
When
Karl isn't in the restaurant he spends his time at home with wife Agnes
in his home village of Shepherdswell.
He also does some time trial
rallying around the lanes between Dover and Canterbury as part of a
club.
Luckily, he has Sundays and Mondays off so he can have a bit of a
break from the frantic life in the kitchen.
He said: "It is good to
relax and do something different to unwind.
"I love working in our own
place. We will never make millions, but if we provide people with good
food and a nice experience I hope we can't go too far wrong."
Contact The Arlington on 01304 209444.
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